The rail and rollers are the two components of barn door hardware. The rail is screwed into the cabinet. The rollers are mounted on the door and roll along the rail.
Here is another low-cost option for barn door hardware, this time for cabinet doors. I love the photographs in this blog because they really show what you can accomplish if you set your mind to it.
There are also some simple directions to follow, as well as a film, indicating that this is a strategy that should be simple to recreate at home.
Hence follow the instructions of X Easy Barn Door Hardware Ideas below;
The Best Rail, Barn Door Hardware DIY
Purely use a 1″ broad flat steel bar, which is accessible at most hardware stores for approximately $15 for 7 feet, to build the rail track.
You will also need some scrap flat steel bars for the roller components. I bought a seven-foot-long portion for my five-foot-wide project.
Drill holes to install the flat steel bar to the cabinet with a steel drill bit. Because I was using 2/3″ nuts, I drilled the apertures using a 2/3″ drill bit.
Drill openings every two meters or so – I drilled three holes for a five-foot-wide cabinet. Put your mounting holes where they make some sense in relation to the cabinet.
The rail should be positioned back from the cabinet so that the door may pass through. Spacers are available at almost any hardware shop.
The width of the spacer should be equivalent to the diameter of the window frame; my door was 2″ width, so I used a 2″ spacer.
You will also require screws, a spring, and a tightening nut. I went with a 2/3″ size.
A smoother flat head for the nut that connects the rail to the cabinet is preferable so that the sliding glass door does not stick.
If a shallower flat head nut is unavailable, a round head will suffice. If you must use a hexagonal head, just attach some screws to your door rollers to allow the door to slide over the nut head.
I was so excited to try out my DIY hardware concept for the rolling barn-style doors, that I set to work as immediately as I could on next day. And by Saturday afternoon, I had my doors operational.
I am delighted with how wonderfully this hardware performed!! So please bear with me as I go over the specifics. I will go through the hardware elements, and then I will go over the procedures I took to get from idea to implementation.
Allow me to be clear: these doors are far from finished!!! I have yet to frame out the entryway, refinish the doors, or put the glass on the doors.
There is still a lot of work to be done before this project is completed. But I did stuff in this sequence because I needed to make sure my hardware concept would really work before I boxed out the entryway particularly to suit the doors and took the time to paint the doors and install glass.
Now that I know the hardware design works, I can go back and work on the final touches.
I adore barn doors, but the exorbitant cost of hardware can be too expensive. I will show you how I made my own barn door hardware for the most affordable price possible, using just novel off-the-shelf parts. It is also quite simple to create, using only a drill, a hacksaw, and some paint thinner.
List of Rail Supplies
- Flat Steel Bar 2″ wide x 2/10″ wide
- 2/3″ nut that is 2″ taller than the cabinet header width + spacer dimension
- Spacers of the same diameter as the width of the door
- 2/3″ screws (get a few more because you will require them)
- Interlocking screws, 2/3″
- Steel-bladed hacksaw
- Drill set 2/3″ for drilling steel metal
DIY Barn Door Hardware – The Best Rollers
The best rollers are extremely easy to use! Here is how you combined them –
You began with a 10-inch-long portion of flat steel metal bar cut using a hacksaw. For each flat steel metal bar, you drilled three basic holes parts: one at the head for connecting the roller wheel and two at the base for connecting the door.
The roller is composed of two 2″ bumper screws joined by a 2/3″ hole in the middle. Smaller 1.5-1/2″ bumper screws are sandwiched between the bigger bumper screws. You made use of three.
I put washers on the outsides of the bigger fender washers to keep the tire from rubbing on the bar and scraping the paint off.
Ultimately, the “axle shaft” is a 2/3″ nut 1.5-1/3″ long – all the pieces are fitted on the nut and a locking clamp ties it all together. Allow the “disc” to spin freely by leaving the locking nut open.
You will also need nuts or lag fasteners to secure the door to the flat steel metal bar, based on the thickness and design of the door. Simply to make your life easier, you are capable of printing out to figure out exactly what you need, thus the above illustrations are the X Easy Barn Door Hardware Ideas.